Tuesday, April 10, 2007

The Academy Award for Supporting Role in Pilgrim Benediction Goes to.....



YES, YES, YES. ME !!!!!!!

First I would like to thank all the little people who helped me......

Sunday we did a lot of church stuff seeing as how Conques is pretty much the church and the abbey. We had high mass in the morning, a short pilgrimage to Chapel of St: Foy outside of city (1/2 mile downhill, 1/2 uphill, 1/2 downhill, 1/2 up)? vespers at 6:30, dinner in the abbey at 7, followed by the pilgrim benediction in the cathedral. They needed someone to do a reading in English. While I was a bit miffed that I was not first choice (what with my pilgrim emeritus status and all) but THIRD? I accepted none the less. I got to sit up by the altar under the crossing dome while the other pilgrims were in the choir. I did Revelations 22, 4-5. And I boomed it out like Jennifer Houston in Dreamgirls. This was followed by an immediate 10 minutes of silence....I thought I left the padres speechless but it was probably just a prayer moment.

I was so enthralled I decided to sing out loud in my flat voice in fractured French the rest of the songs. Karaoke Camino (Chemin, I should say) indeed. The service ended with a piano and organ concert. Quite nice.

Going out of Conques, I revisited the Chapel of St. Foy (which was on the way--down 200 meters and up 200 meters) in order to light a candle for my friend Mark who has a special regard for either the chapel or the saint....or both. The chapel is pictured to the left in the morning fog. St. Foy, a biggie on the chemin, was a local saint and cures eye diseases. They have a big procession from Conques to the chapel every fall.




I have been having a bit of trouble with a blocked tear duct and figured that my two trips to the chapel (as well as toting a candle from the cathedral for Mark and another for the son of a friend of Anne Marie who had some serious head trauma in a motorcycle accident in Paris recently) might qualify me for just a tiny little miraclette. And I vowed that, while I wouldn't pray for it, I would consider the whole church thing again if the eye thing cleared up. [Note: it didn't.]




The tough terrain of the Central Massiff has given way to more undulating hills. We made it to Figeac today. Annie leaves us. I only have three more days with Anne Marie. Have to get in another group....supposedly there are more hikers after Easter. There were two burly guys yesterday I would not have minded joining. But they were roughing it and sleeping outside. Then there is the guy doing it on horseback. I can see myself getting in the saddle with him.

Today we bought some local cevre from a farm we passed up on the hill and had an alfresco lunch on the trail. They had about 40 dogs of various breeds, goats, pigs; and a donkey. One of the dogs was a big bloodhound that was howling like a banshee. A little puffy thing was screwing a much much larger hairy dog. It looked like a Heironymus Bosch painting. Luckily we saw the spotless chesse facilities and house before the owners came back (with 4 more baying dogs). Otherwise I for one would not have eaten anything from that place.


The Aubrac brown cows who have really stolen my heart have given way to Gurnseys and Jerseys with huge udders. We are on the rout de la lait. So I guess I will be having a lot more cheese.

Weather is still fantastic--sunny and mild. But it has got to rain soon.

1 comment:

Jorge Haas Filho said...

Dan, I dont know if I miss the explanation about your bags... Did you find it? Did BA find it?